Friday, 25 February 2011


Watching the accounts that have been seeping out about the Galliano arrest I felt no need to post as many of the big websites Vogue etc were covering the story with accurate and regular updates which this humble blog can not pretend it would be able to do.

Something about not fixing what isn't broken. That was until the news emerged that Mr Galliano has now been suspended from Dior.

Fashion is constantly seeking to present a changing dialogue of creativity and innovation yet at its' core remains traditions and taboos which only serve the fashion critics enough ammunition to fire through the gaps in its' glossy exterior.

Debates rage on regarding weight, race and sexuality and now religion and semitism find themselves taking there turn in the spotlight. Ideally one would love to imagine a fashion world not plagued with judgmental and disturbing views of segregation and discrimination but such a highly talented and well known designer finding himself disgraced surely can only serve a greater cause through the public condemnation of such actions maybe one day the fashion world will begin to readdress itself from the inside out.

Tackling those toxic elements whirling unseen at its' nucleaus one by one.

Catch the Sleek details here.


Monday, 21 February 2011


Arise please Christopher Kane has just given us his AW11 LFW catwalk show.

Continuing his take on prim and proper, prepare for an assault of granny crochet geniality courtesy of Vogue.


Thursday, 17 February 2011


"Topofdamorningtoya" or simply "hello" to all the new peepers who have taken a stop at this wee little blog over the last month or so.

Latvia, Malaysia, Israel, Brazil and Mexico

I am forever grateful for your love.



INSIDE-OUT boy you turn me ...

according to the word play in this post title, all around.

LFW kicks off in a mere couple of hours and as the London fashion peoples are right in the no sleep, every thing go excitement of fashion week, enjoy the shows from around the world brought right to you by Topshop.

Tomorrow I'll see you 9am sharp at Somerset House where it all kicks off with Paul Costelloe.

Note to self must remember to charge Fujifilm tonight.

And be close to computer source to experience front row simulation courtesy of Topshop.


3.1 MR. LIM

The 1990's. Remember them?

Well, if not some of the designers who have shown during NYFW have definitely taken a trip down memory lane to help us bring the past hurling straight into our present, although somewhere there was a interchange at the future because this isn't the 90's as we remember it.

Phillip Lim with his technically named line 3.1 gives that technical edge to his collection through the use of easy, sharp and flowing lines. Think 90s Calvin but bigger, bolder and bolder.

Shots of royal blue break up architectural silhouetteswhile leather and concrete coloured pieces help to create a grown up landscape. Similarly the injections of pea green works to startle some of the shier colours in the pieces.

A bulbous white dress takes its' place proudly as the hem lines mismatch in an uneven tribute to bare legs. I like. Ditto the curvaceous detailing on the arms and shoulder seams. Later it makes a schizophrenic appearance having morphed during apparent chrysalis, with that injection we mentioned earlier, and prior to this mid way via some golden spikes over sheer sleeves and the addition of a slit here and there.

Colourful statement jewellery finds its partner in a grey and black piece but really thats just looking for a reason to adorn as it works suitably on an individual basis.

Overall, an impressive collection of well tailored and structured pieces which are allowed to sing acapella or work together as a symphony of sharp, fresh ideas.

AW11 is feeling good and suddenly Mr. Lim has me wanting, craving even, brown wide leg leather trousers.

Take a stroll through the 3.1 autumn winter at (images courtesy of) Vogue.



Proenza Schouler unveiled their vision to the fashion world today during NYFW using a smorgasbord of Aztec inspired prints, the designers say was inspired by a recent road trip to Mexico with a rental car and spades of Native American reference points.

It is a well styled, coherent and colourful collection tickling my winter fancies even before summer has began. But isn't that the whole point of fashion showing so early?

Translating the pieces into outfits one can wear will not prove to difficult, as again the styling is simplistic and flows in a stream of jewelled tones. Autumnal brilliance.

Of particular interest to me (i.e. need to seriously consider raiding my piggy bank for) the white necklace against a black shirt which drips itself over a mustard yellow skirt of equal 'flowability'. And as for that black blazer which is given a new story through its' transformation into a coat through a precisely perfect textured oversized hem - so far my winter coat of choice. I'll stop my hit list here and leave you to create your own with the help of these images from the ever full flute of fashion juice Fashiongonerogue


Tuesday, 15 February 2011


I really dig the texture in Marc Jacobs AW11 collection, ditto that Vogue close up option.


Thursday, 10 February 2011


NY Magazine features an excellent interview with Italian Vogue Editor, Franca Sozzani, on the increasingly blurred line between creative imagery, vulgarity and fashion.

Franca articulately describes the state of certain areas of fashion and references French Vogue's shoot of six year old girls, questioning the aesthetics and decision process in the production of the images, and with reference to her feelings to towards certain aspects of the images, she uses the term "outrageous for their age".

Personally, I could not agree more with the way crude is now somehow cool. Ultimately meaning that true renegades of creativity, photography and fashion are not appreciated enough due to this saturation of plastic shock.

Of further interest to nosey old me was the reader comments, especially those referring to the rise of trash served as avant garde on the serving platters of certain pop singers (those who know me well will know who I mean).

One commenter also raised the issue of the exploitation of homosexuality to sell products and push sales in ad campaigns. An issue I regularly believe is not discussed nearly enough as is needed.

Anyhoo, read the article and take a look at the images in question courtesy of Mosaic and partake in your own debate.


Tuesday, 8 February 2011


(Jean Paul Gaultier)

The subject of cultural identity has been slowly seeping into my consciousness.

While currently working at News International I have daily access to their newspapers (flicking through the lifestyle pages during lunchtime) and following on from recent University lectures on identity, representation and choice – I’m suddenly finding myself more aware that this area of conversation is one I am having more (if only with myself).

The 'Big Society' is one of the topics that many a Times article centres around and how we can adopt a harmonious multicultural society in which our needs and beliefs are respected yet the values of Britain kept whole is one of their favourite areas of discussion.

Indeed, one of the key issues here is what constitutes the values of Britain? Furthermore, what is it to be British? For this post I will not delve into these areas as they are fraught with tensions and complex issues of identity that may veer too complex for even I, who is obsessed with equality and harmony and all that jazz.

More precisely this isn’t a social commentary blog, however, Susie Bubble raised the question of ethnicity in fashion in her recent post (so good I felt it was an article) which in turn got me asking myself questions about the representation or (mis) thereof of ‘ethnic’ communities in fashion.

(John Galliano)

Although it is naive to assume that the minorities are reflected in a fair and equal way in fashion – as highlighted in this Vogue article, it is also dangerous to assume that designers are merely exploiting non-western traditions in order to gain acclaim/sales for their collections.

(Jean Paul Gaultier)

Rather the contrary, without these influences fashion would veer only to the traditions of the biggest (in terms of global market influence) of the western lands UK, USA etc. which all, have their roots firmly planted in traditions and cultures not of their own but of the land they/we have come to occupy: the Viking, Normans and Romans for us Brits and the Red Indians and to a large extent, African Americans for the Yanks. Put simply the very essence of the west is ethnicity; the only difference is that over years of watering down the vivacity of ethnic societies has been lost to the west. Perhaps designers are aiming to bring this sense of ethnic exuberance back to a western world of white modern values that sometimes lacks the colour and traditions of its cousins. Or maybe that’s just reading into it too much (?).

(Jean Paul Gaultier)

So to be the advocate to my own argument that then means that designers are using ethnic influences to reach that acclaim I mentioned earlier. As the model suggests in order to get the most acclaim, one must reach the biggest audience. Pop. Culture. As the biggest audience is currently white and western this would mean designers would just have to design with influences in mind that would appeal to this audience (not a gesture to the cultures as the lady in Susie’s post alludes to).

But you see this isn’t what fashion is, at its source - the designers mind. Fashion at conception is not about being popular – that is what the PR, Editors, Buyers and High Street interpretations do. The designer is showing us a story that we can read and sometimes that story involves a journey to a distant land or a jolly into the western past.

As a person with ethnic roots it doesn’t seem that the designers are specifically catering for ethnic markets when they release collections but instead have experienced a journey they want to share with us.


Their designs tell us a story. A story that can take place anywhere. Anywhere in the world.


Sunday, 6 February 2011


So I've been away for a while 72 hours to be precise and now back in London I am suffering from the post holiday blues.

In order to lift spirits Church and blog surfing have come to the rescue. And a hug from the family (even the lecture from mama about my lack of communication while away helped).

So thanks for a ray of Texas sunshine Miss Vintage Virgin, it's always a pleasure.

Whilst in Berlin the gang (bestest - friend & cousin) took the obligatory trip to Garage vintage studios and cruised aisle upon rack upon basket of second hand goodness. So in memory to the vintage elements of our adventures I continue to hit up Miss VV.

A minute silence please.

More posts on Berlin to follow.