The 1990's. Remember them?
Well, if not some of the designers who have shown during NYFW have definitely taken a trip down memory lane to help us bring the past hurling straight into our present, although somewhere there was a interchange at the future because this isn't the 90's as we remember it.
Phillip Lim with his technically named line 3.1 gives that technical edge to his collection through the use of easy, sharp and flowing lines. Think 90s Calvin but bigger, bolder and bolder.
Shots of royal blue break up architectural silhouetteswhile leather and concrete coloured pieces help to create a grown up landscape. Similarly the injections of pea green works to startle some of the shier colours in the pieces.
A bulbous white dress takes its' place proudly as the hem lines mismatch in an uneven tribute to bare legs. I like. Ditto the curvaceous detailing on the arms and shoulder seams. Later it makes a schizophrenic appearance having morphed during apparent chrysalis, with that injection we mentioned earlier, and prior to this mid way via some golden spikes over sheer sleeves and the addition of a slit here and there.
Colourful statement jewellery finds its partner in a grey and black piece but really thats just looking for a reason to adorn as it works suitably on an individual basis.
Overall, an impressive collection of well tailored and structured pieces which are allowed to sing acapella or work together as a symphony of sharp, fresh ideas.
AW11 is feeling good and suddenly Mr. Lim has me wanting, craving even, brown wide leg leather trousers.
Take a stroll through the 3.1 autumn winter at (images courtesy of) Vogue.